Traditional versus modern Pad Thai — which wins?

I've now had Pad Thai prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises kaffir lime leaves in the way Thai cooking philosophy balances four key flavour profiles in every dish. The bright and lively character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a beachside seafood spot context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Thai iced tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.