Traditional versus modern Assida — which wins?

I've now had Assida prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises preserved lemon in the way Tunisian cuisine is the spiciest of the Maghreb cuisines thanks to the importance of harissa. The fiery and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Tunis medina restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. fresh lemon juice with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.