Traditional versus modern Dolma — which wins?

I've now had Dolma prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises sumac in the way the meze tradition of small shared dishes predates the main course. The warmly spiced and complex character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a home dinner table context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. çay black tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.