Traditional versus modern Chicken Kyiv — which wins?

I've now had Chicken Kyiv prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises beetroot in the way Ukrainian cuisine reflects centuries of agricultural abundance. The deeply comforting character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a village-style restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. horilka with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.