Traditional versus modern Kapusniak — which wins?
I've now had Kapusniak prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises sour cream in the way Ukrainian cuisine reflects centuries of agricultural abundance. The rich and warming character is more pronounced and direct.
The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a village-style restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. dark rye bread with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.
Kapusniak