Traditional versus modern Tequeños — which wins?

I've now had Tequeños prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises black beans caraotas in the way hallacas Christmas preparation is a multi-day family tradition where the whole extended family participates. The sweet-savoury from cornmeal base character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Colombian-Venezuelan border town restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. ron Santa Teresa rum with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.