Traditional versus modern Banh Mi — which wins?

I've now had Banh Mi prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises rice paper in the way fresh herbs added at the table are a defining characteristic. The clean and deeply savoury character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Hoi An restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. bia hoi draught beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.