Traditional versus modern Com Tam — which wins?

I've now had Com Tam prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises lemongrass in the way Vietnamese cuisine shows French colonial influence alongside traditional Southeast Asian techniques. The fresh with citrus and mint character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Hanoi pho stall at breakfast context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. fresh sugarcane juice with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.